| Swindon | |
The landmark David Murray John tower, seen from the Westcott Recreation Ground. |
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Swindon
Swindon shown within Wiltshire |
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| Population | 155,432 |
|---|---|
| OS grid reference | SU152842 |
| - London | 81 miles (130 km) |
| Unitary authority | Swindon |
| Ceremonial county | Wiltshire |
| Region | South West |
| Country | England |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | SWINDON |
| Postcode district | SN1-6, SN25, SN26 |
| Dialling code | 01793 |
| Police | Wiltshire |
| Fire | Wiltshire |
| Ambulance | Great Western |
| EU Parliament | South West England |
| UK Parliament | North Swindon |
| South Swindon | |
| List of places: UK • England • Wiltshire | |
Swindon () is a large town within the borough of Swindon and ceremonial county of Wiltshire, in South West England. It is midway between Bristol, 40 miles (64 km) west and Reading, 40 miles (64 km) east. London is 81 miles (130 km) east. In the 2001 census, the population of the Swindon urban area was 155,432, while the wider borough of Swindon had a population of 184,000.
Swindon was named an Expanded Town under the Town Development Act 1952 and this led to a major increase in its population.[1] Swindon railway station is on the line from London Paddington to Bristol. Swindon Borough Council, is a unitary authority independent of Wiltshire Council since 1997. Residents of Swindon are known as Swindonians. Swindon is home to the Bodleian Library's book depository, which contains 153 miles (246 km) of bookshelves.[2]
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The original Saxon settlement of Swindon sat in a defensible position atop a limestone hill. It is referred to in the Domesday Book as Suindune, believed to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon words swine and dun meaning 'pig hill' or possibly, 'Sweyn's hill', where Sweyn would be the local landlord.
Swindon was a small market town, mainly for barter trade, until roughly 1848. This original market area is on top of the hill in central Swindon, now known as Old Town.[3]
The Industrial Revolution was responsible for an acceleration of Swindon's growth. It started with the construction of the Wilts and Berks Canal in 1810 and the North Wilts Canal in 1819. The canals brought trade to the area and Swindon's population started to grow.
| Swindon Area Railway Map | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Legend
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In 1840, Isambard Kingdom Brunel chose Swindon as the site for the railway works he planned for the Great Western Railway. Eastwards towards London, the line was gently graded, while westwards there was a steep descent towards Bath. Swindon was the junction for the proposed line to Gloucester.
Swindon Junction station opened in 1842 and, until 1895, every train stopped for at least 10 minutes to change locomotives. As a result, the station hosted the first recorded railway refreshment rooms.[4] There were three storeys to the station in 1842, with the refreshment rooms on the ground floor, the upper floors housing the station hotel and lounge. That building was demolished in 1972 and replaced by an office building with a single-storey modern station under it.
The town's railway works were completed in 1842. The GWR built a small railway 'village' to house some of its workers. People still live in those houses and several of the buildings that made up the railway works remain, although many are vacant. The Steam Railway Museum and English Heritage, including the National Monuments Record, now occupy part of the old works. In the village were the GWR Medical Fund Clinic at Park House and its hospital, both on Faringdon Road, and the 1892 health centre in Milton Road - which housed clinics, a pharmacy, laundries, baths, Turkish baths and swimming pools - was almost opposite.
From 1871, GWR workers had a small amount deducted from their weekly pay and put into a healthcare fund – its doctors could prescribe them or their family members free medicines or send them for medical treatment. In 1878 the fund began providing artificial limbs made by craftsmen from the carriage and wagon works, and nine years later opened its first dental surgery. In his first few months in post the dentist extracted more than 2000 teeth. From the opening in 1892 of the Health Centre, a doctor could also prescribe a haircut or even a bath. The cradle-to-grave extent of this service was later used as a blueprint for the NHS.[5]
The Mechanics' Institute, formed in 1844, moved into a building looking rather like a church and included a covered market, on 1 May 1855. The New Swindon Improvement Company, a co-operative, raised the funds for this path self-improvement and paid the GWR £40 a year for its new home on a site at the heart of the railway village. It was a groundbreaking organisation that transformed the railway's workforce into some of the country's best-educated manual workers.[6]
It had the UK's first lending library,[7] and a range of improving lectures, access to a theatre and a range of activiies from ambulance classes to xylophone lessons. A former Institute secretary formed the New Swindon Co-operative Society in 1853 which, after a schism in the society's membership, spawned the New Swindon Industrial Society that ran a retail business from a stall in the market at the Institute. The Institute also nurtured pioneering trades unionists and encouraged local democracy.[8]
When tuberculosis hit the new town, the Mechanics’ Institute persuaded the industrial pioneers of North Wiltshire to agree that the railway's former employees should continue to receive medical attention from the doctors of GWR Medical Society Fund, which the Institute had played a role in establishing and funding.[9]
Swindon's ‘other’ railway, the Swindon, Marlborough and Andover Railway, merged with the Swindon and Cheltenham Extension Railway to form the Midland & South Western Junction Railway, which set out to join the London & South Western Railway with the Midland Railway at Cheltenham. The Swindon, Marlborough & Andover had planned to tunnel under the hill on which Swindon's Old Town stands but the money ran out and the railway ran into Swindon Town railway station, off Devizes Road in the Old Town, skirting the new town to the west, intersecting with the GWR at Rushey Platt and heading north for Cirencester, Cheltenham and the LMS, whose 'Midland Red' livery the M&SWJR adopted.
During the second half of the 19th century, Swindon New Town grew around the main line between London and Bristol. In 1900, Old Swindon, the original market town, merged with its newer neighbour at the bottom of the hill to become a single Swindon.[3]
On 1 July 1923, the GWR took over the largely single-track M&SWJR and the line northwards from Swindon Town was diverted to Swindon Junction station, leaving the Town station with only the line south to Andover and Salisbury.[10][11][12] The last passenger trains on what had been the SM&A ran on 10 September 1961, 80 years after the railway's first stretch opened.
During the first half of the 20th century, the railway works was the town's largest employer and one of the biggest in the country, employing more than 14,500 workers. Alfred Williams[13] (1877–1930) wrote about his life as a hammerman at the works.[14]
The works' decline started in 1960, when it rolled out Evening Star, the last steam engine to be built in the UK.[15] The works lost its locomotive building role and took on rolling stock maintenance for British Rail. In the late 1970s, much of the works closed and the rest followed in 1986.
David Murray John,[16] Swindon's town clerk from 1938 until shortly before his death in 1974, had foreseen the decline of the railway works and, with colleagues, had worked to attract other employers to the town. The extent of their success can be judged from the list of current major employers. Swindon's tallest building is named after him
In February 2008 The Times named Swindon as one of "The 20 best places to buy a property in Britain".[17] Only Warrington had a lower ratio of house prices to household income in 2007, with the average household income in Swindon among the highest in the country.
In October 2008 Swindon made a controversial move to ban fixed point speed cameras. The move was branded as reckless by some[18] but by November 2008 Portsmouth, Walsall and Birmingham councils[19][20] were also considering the move.
In 2001 construction began on Priory Vale, the third and final instalment in Swindon's 'Northern Expansion' project, which began with Abbey Meads and continued at St Andrew's Ridge. In 2002 the New Swindon Company was formed with the remit of regenerating the town centre,[21] to improve Swindon's regional status. The main areas targeted are Union Square, The Promenade, The Hub, Swindon Central, North Star Village, The Campus and the Public Realm.
The local council was created in 1974 as the Borough of Thamesdown, out of Swindon Borough and Highworth Rural Councils. It was not initially called Swindon, because the borough covers a larger area than the town and encompasses villages and land. It was eventually renamed to Borough of Swindon in 1997, however. The borough became a unitary authority on 1 April 1997,[22] following a review by Local Government Commission for England. The town is therefore no longer under the auspices of Wiltshire Council.
The borough consists of parished and non-parished areas. Parished areas include Bishopstone and Hinton Parva, Blunsdon St Andrew, Castle Eaton, Chiseldon, Covingham, Hannington, Haydon Wick, Highworth, Inglesham, Liddington, South Marston, Stanton Fitzwarren, Stratton St Margaret, Wanborough and Wroughton.
The executive comprises a leader and a cabinet made up from the Conservative Group. The current makeup of the council as of the 2011 election is:
| Party | Councillors[23] | |
| Conservative Party | 38 | |
| Labour Party | 17 | |
| Liberal Democrats | 4 | |
Swindon is represented in the national parliament by two MPs. Robert Buckland (Conservative) was elected for the South Swindon seat in May 2010 with a 5.5% swing from Labour and Justin Tomlinson, also Conservative, represents North Swindon after a 10.1% swing at the same election. Prior to 1997, there was a single seat for Swindon, although much of what is now in Swindon was then in the Devizes seat.
2001 Boundary Commission Changes: NORTH SWINDON COUNTY CONSTITUENCY (67,106). Eleven wards of the Borough of Swindon:- Abbey Meads, Blunsdon, Covingham and Nythe, Gorse Hill and Pinehurst, Haydon Wick, Highworth, Moredon, Penhill, St Margaret, St Philip, Western. SOUTH SWINDON COUNTY CONSTITUENCY (70,794). Eleven wards of the Borough of Swindon:- Central, Dorcan, Eastcott, Freshbrook and Grange Park, Old Town and Lawn, Parks, Ridgeway, Shaw and Nine Elms, Toothill and Westlea, Walcot, Wroughton and Chiseldon. [1]
The town has an area of approximately 40 km² (25.33 mi²).
Swindon has a temperate climate, with roughly equal length winters and summers. The landscape is dominated by the chalk hills of the Wiltshire Downs to the south and east. The hill that makes up what is known as Old Town consists of Purbeck and Portland stone; this was quarried from Roman times up until the 1950s.[24] The area that was known as New Swindon is made up of mostly Kimmeridge clay with outcrops of Corrallian clay in the areas of Penhill and Pinehurst.[24] Oxford clay makes up the rest of the borough.[24] The River Ray forms the town's western boundary, including its tributary of the River Cole.[24]
Swindon experiences a maritime climate type, as with all of the British Isles. This results in comparatively mild winters, and comparatively cool summers compared with what might otherwise be expected of its latitude. The nearest official weather station is RAF Lyneham, about 9 miles (14 km) west south west of Swindon town centre. The weather stations elevation is 145 metres, compared to the typical 100 metres encountered around Swindon town centre, so is likely to be marginally cooler throughout the year.
The absolute maximum is 34.9c (94.8f)[25] recorded during August 1990. In an average year the warmest day should reach 28.7c (83.7f)[26] and 10.3 days[27] should register a temperature of 25.1c (77.2f) or above
The absolute minimum is -16.0c (3.0f),[28] recorded in January 1982, and in an average year 45.2 nights of air frost can be expected.
Sunshine, at 1565 hours a year is typical for inland parts in much of Southern England, although significantly higher than most areas further north.
Annual rainfall averages slightly under 720 mm (28 in) per year with 123 days reporting over 1 mm of rain.
| Climate data for Lyneham, elevation 145m, 1971-2000, extremes 1960- | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 13.7 (56.7) |
16.6 (61.9) |
20.0 (68.0) |
25.3 (77.5) |
26.6 (79.9) |
32.7 (90.9) |
34.4 (93.9) |
34.9 (94.8) |
28.8 (83.8) |
24.9 (76.8) |
16.5 (61.7) |
14.4 (57.9) |
34.9 (94.8) |
| Average high °C (°F) | 6.6 (43.9) |
6.9 (44.4) |
9.4 (48.9) |
12.0 (53.6) |
15.7 (60.3) |
18.5 (65.3) |
21.2 (70.2) |
20.7 (69.3) |
17.7 (63.9) |
13.6 (56.5) |
9.6 (49.3) |
7.4 (45.3) |
13.3 (55.9) |
| Average low °C (°F) | 1.2 (34.2) |
1.0 (33.8) |
2.6 (36.7) |
3.7 (38.7) |
6.7 (44.1) |
9.7 (49.5) |
11.9 (53.4) |
11.8 (53.2) |
9.8 (49.6) |
6.8 (44.2) |
3.7 (38.7) |
2.1 (35.8) |
6.0 (42.8) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −16 (3) |
−11.3 (11.7) |
−8 (18) |
−4.8 (23.4) |
−1.6 (29.1) |
0.6 (33.1) |
3.8 (38.8) |
5.0 (41.0) |
1.5 (34.7) |
−3.6 (25.5) |
−7.8 (18.0) |
−14 (7) |
−16 (3) |
| Precipitation mm (inches) | 70.1 (2.76) |
50.6 (1.992) |
58.3 (2.295) |
47.7 (1.878) |
51.8 (2.039) |
58.5 (2.303) |
47.2 (1.858) |
56.1 (2.209) |
63.9 (2.516) |
70.4 (2.772) |
66.9 (2.634) |
77.4 (3.047) |
719.0 (28.307) |
| Sunshine hours | 55.2 | 72.3 | 108.5 | 156.9 | 196.2 | 194.1 | 212.4 | 197.5 | 144.6 | 107.3 | 71.7 | 48.4 | 1,565.0 |
| Source no. 1: Met Office[29] | |||||||||||||
| Source no. 2: KNMI[30] | |||||||||||||
The 2001 census shows there were 180,061 people and 75,154 occupied houses in the Swindon Unitary Authority.[31] The average household size was 2.38 people. The population density was 780/km² (2020.19/mi²). 20.96% of the population were 0–15 years old, 72.80% 16-74 and the remaining 6.24% were 75 years old or over. For every 100 females there were 98.97 males. Approximately 300,000 people live within 20 minutes of Swindon town centre.
It is forecast that there will be a 70,000 (38.9%) increase in Swindon's population by 2026 from the current 180,000, to 250,000.[32] The ethnic make-up of the town was 95.2% white, 1.3% Indian and 3.5% other. 92.4% were born in the UK, 2.7% in the EU and 4.9% elsewhere.
The majority of Swindonians (70.3%) identify themselves as Christians. This is followed by those of no religion (19.2%), Muslims (1.0%), Sikhs (0.6%), Hindus (0.6%), other (0.2%) and Jews (0.1%). In addition, 8.0% of people chose not to answer this question in the 2001 census.[33]
Swindon is considered to be a microcosm of the whole United Kingdom in its demography. It has thus been used for market research purposes and trials of new products and services including the ill-fated Mondex electronic money.
In May 2007, 65.3% of households in Swindon had broadband Internet access, the highest in the UK, up 5.5% from June 2006.[34]
A 2007 report by Endsleigh Insurance says it was the second safest place to live in the UK after Guildford, Surrey.[35] This was based on the number of insurance claims made and burglaries and accidents reported. Endsleigh said: "Swindon is a great example of where local authorities, working hand in hand with the community, have played a key role in bringing down crime."[35]
After the end of World War II, Polish refugees were temporarily housed in barracks at Fairford RAF base about 25 km (16 mi) north. Around 1950, some settled in Scotland and others in Swindon[36] rather than stay in the barracks or hostels they were offered.[37]
The 2001 UK Census found that most of the Polish-born people had stayed or returned after serving with British forces during World War II. Swindon and Nottingham were parts of this settlement.[38] Data from that census showed that 566 Swindonians were Poland-born.[39] Notes to those data read: ‘The Polish Resettlement Act of 1947, which was designed to provide help and support to people who wished to settle here, covered about 190,000 people ... at the time Britain did not recognise many of the professional [qualifications] gained overseas ... [but] many did find work after the war; some went down the mines, some worked on the land or in steel works. Housing was more of a problem and many Poles were forced to live in barracks previously used for POWs ... The first generation took pains to ensure that their children grew up with a strong sense of Polish identity.’
In 2004, NHS planners devising services for senior citizens estimated that 5 percent of Swindon's population were not ‘ethnically British’[40] and most of those were culturally Polish.
The town's Polish ex-servicemen's club, which had run a football team for 40 years, closed in 2007. Barman Jerzy Trojan blamed the decline of both club and team on the children and grandchildren of the original refugees losing their Polish identity.[41]
Major employers include the Honda of the UK Manufacturing car production plant at an old Vickers factory site on the former World War II RAF base of South Marston, BMW/Mini (formerly Pressed Steel Fisher) in Stratton, mobile phone company Motorola, Dolby Labs, international engineering consultancy firm Halcrow Group Limited and retailer W H Smith's distribution centre and headquarters. The electronics company, Intel, has its European head office on the south side of the town. Insurance and financial services companies such as Nationwide Building Society and Zurich Financial Services, the energy company RWE (which includes the well known retail brand npower), the fuel card and fleet management company Arval, pharmaceutical companies such as Canada's Patheon and the United States-based Catalent Pharma Solutions and French Vygon have their UK divisions headquartered in the town. Swindon also has the registered Head Office of the National Trust.
Swindon businesses include banks such as Barclays, Natwest, HSBC, Lloyds TSB and Handelsbanken, all having a commercial presence. The town also has a number of professional legal firms such as Clarke Holt, Thring Townsend, Lemon & Co, together with accountants such as Dennis & Turnbull and IT companies including Emnico Technologies and iSys Intelligent Systems.
Other employers include all but one of the national Research Councils, the British Computer Society, Alcatel-Lucent, eCommerce provider Shopatron, divisions of Tyco International, consumer goods supplier Reckitt Benckiser and a branch of Becton Dickinson.
At the junction of two Roman roads, the town has developed over the centuries, with the assistance of the GWR and the canals, into a transport hub. It has two junctions (15 and 16) onto the M4 motorway and is on the ex-GWR main line to London.
Swindon bus operators are Thamesdown and Stagecoach.
The local council acknowledges the need for more car parking as part of its vision for 2010.[42]
Swindon is one of the locations for an innovative scheme called Car share. It was set up as a joint venture between Wiltshire County Council and a private organization which now has over 300,000 members registered. Despite the name, however, it is a carpool or ride-sharing rather than a car share scheme, seeking to link people willing to share transport.
The town is notable for its roundabouts and there is a calendar featuring a different roundabout each month.[43] The best-known is the 'Magic Roundabout'. This is not one roundabout but five, the central point of which is a contra-rotational hub,[44] on at the junction of five roads: (clockwise from South) Drove Road, Fleming Way, County Road, Shrivenham Road and Queens Drive. It is built on the site of Swindon wharf on the abandoned Wilts & Berks Canal, near the County Ground. The official name used to be County Islands, although it was colloquially known as the Magic Roundabout and the name was changed in the late 1990s to match its nickname. The roundabout inspired the song "English Roundabout" by local band XTC on their 1982 album English Settlement. It has also been prominently featured in several TV shows, one notable example being the show Blue Peter.[45]
Swindon has a daily newspaper, the Swindon Advertiser, with daily sales of about 21,000. Other newspapers covering the area include Bristol's daily Western Daily Press and the Swindon Advertisers weekly, the Gazette and Herald. It's All About and 'The Local Buddy' (both no longer trading), The Wiltshire Ocelot (a free listings magazine), Swindon Star, Hungry Monkeys (a comic), Stratton Outlook, Frequency (an arts and cultural magazine), The Great Swindon Magazine, the Swindon Business News and The Swindon Link (for information on the goings on in Swindon).
Local radio stations include More Radio (Swindon) and Heart Wiltshire in the commercial sector, with BBC Radio Wiltshire as a publicly funded alternative. A new community radio station was launched in March 2008, Swindon 105.5, which is one of the only stations in Swindon to broadcast local content all week. Brunel FM ceased broadcasting on the 24 March 2010 as it was one of five stations owned by YMC Ltd closed by administrators. Although a new radio station has since opened on the same frequency, 107.7 Total Star FM which in June 2011 rebranded to the current station More FM.
Between 1973 and June 2000, Swindon had its own cable television channel. It was called Swindon Viewpoint, a community television project run mainly by enthusiasts from the basement of a Radio Rentals branch on Victoria Road. It was followed by the more commercial Swindon's Local Channel, which included pay-per-view films.[49] NTL (later Virgin Media) took over the channel's parent company, ComTel, and closed the station.
Regional news programmes covering Swindon include Thames Valley Tonight replaced by "Meridian Ton" for the second time in Feb 2009 and The West Tonight from regional ITV1 stations and South Today (Oxford) and Points West from BBC One's regional variants.
Swindon has 53 primary schools, 11 secondary schools and two purpose built sixth-form colleges. Two secondary schools also have 6th forms.
New College and Swindon College cater for the town's further education and higher education requirements, mainly for 16-21 year olds. Swindon College is one of the largest FE-HE colleges in southwestern England, situated at a purpose-built campus in North Star, Swindon.
The University of Bath in Swindon was established in 2000, with its Oakfield Campus in Walcot, east Swindon, although the campus has now closed.
Oxford Brookes University's Ferndale site is based in Swindon, housing its School of Health and Social Care since 1999.
Swindon is the UK's largest centre of population without its own university (by comparison, there are two universities in nearby Bath, which is half Swindon's size). In March 2008, a proposal was put forward by former Swindon MP, Anne Snelgrove, for a university-level institution to be established in the town within a decade, culminating in a future 'University of Swindon' (with some touting the future institution to be entitled 'The Murray John University, Swindon', after the town's most distinguished post-war civic leader). In October 2008, plans were announced for a possible University of Swindon campus to be built in east Swindon to the south of the town's Great Western Hospital, close to the M4-A419 interchange. However, these plans are currently mothballed.
Swindon Town F.C. play at the County Ground near the town centre. They have been Football League members since joining the then new Third Division (southern section) in 1920, and won promotion to the Second Division for the first time in 1963. They won their only major trophy to date, the Football League Cup, in 1969 beating Arsenal 3-1, at Wembley Stadium, and won the Anglo-Italian Cup the following year. They won promotion to the First Division in 1990, but stayed in the Second Division due to financial irregularities, only to reach the top flight (by then the Premier League) three years later. Their spell in the top flight lasted just one season, and then came a second successive relegation. A brief spite saw them promoted at the first attempt as champions of the new Division Two, but they were relegated again four years later and in 2006 fell back into the fourth tier for the first time since 1986, although promotion was gained at the first attempt. They were relegated again four years later. Notable former players of the club include John Trollope, Don Rogers, John Moncur, Fraser Digby, Duncan Shearer, Paul Bodin, Alan McLoughlin, Paul Rideout, Mike Summerbee, Shaun Taylor, Jan Åge Fjørtoft and Phil King. Notable former managers include Lou Macari, Ossie Ardiles, Glenn Hoddle, John Gorman, Steve McMahon, Jimmy Quinn (a former player of the club), Colin Todd, Roy Evans, Andy King, Dennis Wise and Paul Sturrock.
The town also has two non league clubs: Swindon Supermarine F.C., playing in Southern League Premier Division, and Highworth Town F.C., based in Highworth and playing in the Hellenic Football League.
Swindon has been twinned with two towns [2]:
As part of a competition run by Disney for 2010[51] Swindon had an official twinning with
Books set in Swindon include The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time by Mark Haddon, and the Thursday Next novels by Jasper Fforde. Fforde's Thursday Next novels feature an alternative-universe Swindon that includes a parodic "Seven Wonders of Swindon". Robert Goddard's Into the Blue, Out of the Sun and "Never Go Back" feature the central character of Harry Barnett from Swindon, and all three novels start in the town. Terry Jones, the former Monty Python member gave Swindon a backhanded reference in one of the short stories in his 2011 collection, "Evil Machines". The story "The Lift that Took People to Places They Didn't Want to Go" ends with the section "...But actually... the evil elevator hadn't changed at all. In fact it went on secretly taking people to places they didn't want to go. For every time the lift took the inhabitants of Swindon back down to the ground floor, they stepped out of the department store and onto the streets of Swindon, and so found themselves somewhere they didn't want to be."
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